Warm up your engine before driving in winter?
There is a huge debate on whether you should let warm up your engine before driving in winter weather. A lot of the information arguing in favor of taking the time to warm up your engine in winter is simply outdated. It refers to a time when engines had carburetors. Newer cars use much different oil that’s thinner and flows better when cold and fuel injection. And fuel injected engines simply doesn’t need the long warm up time. Here are some cold hard facts to dispel the cold engine starting myths.
Cold oil develops proper pressure within seconds
Myth 1: You need to warm up your engine in order to get good oil pressure.
Fact 1: The definition of pressure is “resistance to flow.” When oil is cold, there’s PLENTY of resistance to flow. The oil is thick and it doesn’t want to flow as easily as when it’s hot. Yet, your oil pressure light turns off within seconds after starting your engine. If you really didn’t have pressure when your engine was cold, the light wouldn’t go off until it was fully warmed up. But that doesn’t happen. Wonder why? Well, it’s because oil pressure rise to at least 7-10-psi. within seconds after starting. If you’re using the correct oil viscosity, your oil pressure will be around 40-60-psi. within 5-seconds. That’s enough oil pressure to lubricate bearings and hydraulic lifters.
Cold oil DOES flow in winter
Myth 2: Oil IS thick when cold and doesn’t flow, so you need to warm up the engine so the oil can flow.
Fact 2: It IS cold and it IS thick. But that doesn’t mean it’s frozen
solid or won’t flow! I’ve seen many people claim that 10W-40 oil is solid at -20F. If that were true, you’d be seeing exploding oil pumps every time winter arrived. But you don’t. Wonder why? Because oil isn’t solid at -20F.
The truth is, if you’re using the proper viscosity oil, it’ll start flowing within seconds after starting. Amsoil has a youtube video that purports to show the flow difference between conventional oil and synthetic oil at -40C. They chill both oils and pour them out of a beaker. The results are stunning! The conventional oil has the consistency of grease. But what does that prove? Nothing, because your engine isn’t lubricated by GRAVITY.
Instead, your engine oil is pumped by a positive displacement gear pump.
A Positive Displacement Pump, unlike a Centrifugal or Roto-dynamic Pump, will produce the same flow at a given speed (RPM) no matter the temperature or viscosity of the oil.
A Positive Displacement Pump is a “constant flow machine.” It pumps oil even in the coldest temperatures, no matter the thickness of the oil. As long as the gears are turning and the exit path isn’t blocked, the pump will move oil. If the oil pump couldn’t move cold oil, it would self destruct whether you try to let your engine warm up or just drive it off. Yet you don’t see exploding oil pumps in winter. Look at the oil pumps below and you’ll see that if the oil was frozen solid, the gears would just break off. They don’t. So let’s just stop repeating that stupid statement that cold oil doesn’t flow.
Driving a cold engine causes damage and makes it wear out faster
Myth 3: You should warm up your engine in winter to prevent it from wearing out faster.
Fact 3: 90% of entire wear takes place on cold startup. But we’re talking about wear that occurs during the first 2 seconds after firing up before oil pressure builds and oil flow starts, not 15 seconds later. Oil pressure is what keeps metal parts separated. As you can see above, you have oil pressure as soon as the oil light turns off–which happens within seconds.
The counter argument to the “better warm up your engine” argument is this: If you believe that it’s best to let the oil warm up so it can flow better, then why let it idle? It takes an FAR longer to warm up your engine at idle speed than it does when you drive it.
It’s not good to let an engine warm up in winter before driving
It may be better for your buns, but not for your engine!
Myth 4: It’s good to let the engine warm up in winter before driving
Fact 4: Uh, no. It’s not good for the engine. When an engine is cold, the computer sends a very rich fuel mixture to each cylinder. It has to because most of the “fire” in the cylinder gets quenched by the cold engine and cylinder head. That extra fuel washes oil off the cylinder walls, so your goal is to get it up to operating temperature as quickly as possible.
Plus, all engines, even new ones have some amount of “blow-by.” That means a certain portion of the air/fuel mixture flows past the piston rings and into the crankcase oil. Blowby gasses contain unburned fuel, CO, CO2, water and oil. That extra unburned fuel and blow-by harms your engine two ways:
• The water and fuel mix with the oil to reducing its ability to lubricate and maintain pressure and flow
• Water and fuel in the oil causes oil degradation and sludge.
The faster you warm up the engine, the faster the computer will start cutting back on fuel. Faster fuel cut-back means less cylinder washdown and less fuel and water in the crankcase.
Idling a cold engine evaporates fuel and water from your oil
Myth 5: Warming up your engine in winter evaporates the fuel and moisture that gets into your crankcase oil.
Fact 5: Yeah, to some small degree that’s correct. But late model vehicles don’t heat up enough at idle to burn off that extra gas and water. Again, the faster you drive, the faster the engine heats up. The worst thing for your engine is to let it warm up for 10 minutes, then drive 10 minutes to work and shut it off. That leaves way too much fuel and water in your crankcase.
How long should you let your car warm up before driving?
That depends on the type of engine you have. Late model engines with direct fuel injection should warm up for about 45 seconds. That’s enough time to get good enough oil flow to fully lubricate the high pressure fuel pump and camshaft. Those high pressure fuel pumps boots gasoline pressure to almost 2,000-psi. Driving them right away can cause excessive camshaft and fuel pump wear. On other engines, 15-30-seconds is plenty.
How to drive after you’ve started your engine in winter
Just because car makers recommend driving after starting doesn’t mean you can put the pedal to the metal. Start the engine and let it run while you buckle up, turn on the radio and defrosters. Then put it in gear and drive GENTLY for the first 3-4 minutes. At that point, you’ve got good oil flow and pressure.
• Avoid jack rabbit starts and heavy acceleration for the first 3-4 minutes
©, 2018 Rick Muscoplat
Posted on by Rick Muscoplat