Should you switch to synthetic oil
This article is about synthetic oil and the myths surrounding its use. It’s just one in a series. If you’d like to know more about synthetic oil click on the links below.
I’m asked these questions about synthetic oils on a regular basis, so I thought I’d take the time to separate fact from fiction.
Myth #1 Should you flush the engine before you switch to synthetic?
NO! The rationale for this myth is that synthetic oil contains more detergents than conventional oil. That particular fact is true—they do contain more detergent. However, synthetic oils also contains higher levels of dispersant additive. The dispersant is what keeps the dirt is suspension and carries it off to the filter. In other words, synthetic oil doesn’t dissolve buildup and then just drop it at the bottom of the engine.
Now, let’s address the flushing issue. If you’ve been maintaining your vehicle according to manufacturer’s recommendations, you won’t have sludge buildup. In that case, flushing your engine is a compete waste of time and money. If you’ve neglected your engine, flushing it is the WORST thing you could do. See my article “Engine Flush=Wallet Flush” to see what kind of catastrophic damage you can do to a sludged up engine by flushing it.
Bottom line is this: DON’T flush a well maintained engine before switching to synthetic, and DON’T flush a poorly maintained engine in the hope that you can bring it back from hell.
Myth #2 Will switching to synthetic will cause my engine to leak
This wasn’t a myth 25 years ago. Those oils were formulated without seal conditioners. Engine seals harden as they age. Seal conditioners soften the seals and actually make them swell. If an aged engine seal returned to its hardened state, any oil could cause leaks. But since synthetic oils flow easier when cold, that only compounded the problem. The engine parts on a cold engine contract. Add in hardened seals and a thinner oil and guess what—you get leaks.
But today’s synthetic oils have the same seal conditioners as conventional oil. So if someone tells you that switching to synthetic will cause your engine to leak, tell them their information is outdated by about 25 years.
Myth #3 Can you can go longer between oil change intervals with synthetic oil?
What this myth based on? I mean, really, what is it about synthetic oil that makes people think it can last 25,000 miles? Well, first, the base oil is a much higher quality product. The oil molecules are more consistent and so the lighter molecules don’t burn off as easily as conventional oil. That means it’s less prone to leaving deposits and forming sludge. Ok, so far. There there’s the additive issue. Synthetic oils contain more and better quality detergents, dispersants, anti-oxidants and friction modifiers than conventional oil. Boy, this is sounding better and better. But here’s the catch, those additives only make up 25% of the oil and they wear out. You can visually examine synthetic oil that’s been run for 15,000 miles and it may look great. You can even extract a sample and run it through it into a testing lab. The lab results may show serviceable levels of friction modifiers. But the oil experts I’ve interviewed (and I’ve interviewed quite a few) tell me that no synthetic oil will show serviceable levels of ALL the necessary additives once you go beyond the manufacturer’s recommended oil drain intervals.
Let’s say you send your oil in for an analysis (cost is around $25 which defeats the purpose of the test in the first place). The analysis comes back and show low “wear metals,” so you automatically make the assumption that the friction modifiers are still working. You may be right. But when you read the report and move over to the additives portion of the report, you run into a brick wall. Why? Because you don’t know what the base level is for those additives. Unless you have insider information, the numbers mean nothing if you view them as a snapshot. They only mean something over time. So you can test the oil every 5,000 miles and see how the additives are holding up over time. But you’ll spend $25 for each test.In the meantime, the viscosity improvers, anti-oxidant, anti-foaming, friction modifiers, and dispersants are constantly wearing out. Even if the labs results show little metal wear, worn oil reduces gas mileage and increase engine emissions. Oil experts tell me that they’ve seen people run extended drain intervals up to 25,000 miles and then fail a state emissions test. Where’s the economy in that?
Bottom line. The only way to reliably run extended drain intervals is to test your oil on a regular basis. That will cost you far more than just changing it according to manufacturer’s recommendations.
Myth #4 Once you switch to synthetic, you can’t go back to traditional oil
Really? You mean the engine gets used to the diet of synthetic and will throw a temper tantrum if you feed it conventional oil? There is NO truth to this rumor. None. Nadda. Zip. It’s a myth—plain and simple. Go ahead and switch back and forth as much as you want.
Myth #5 Since synthetic oils flow better at cold temps, you can bump up to the next higher viscosity.
We all know that you want a thicker oil to protect your engine at higher temps. So, if the manufacturer recommends 5W-30, should you move up to 10W-30 if you’re running synthetic? NOPE. It’s true that synthetic 5W oil flows better than a conventional 5W oil. But it’s not true that a 10W synthetic flow as well as a 5W conventional. And that thicker oil can really screw up variable valve timing mechanisms—even resulting in a Check Engine light. Trust me, the manufacturers have done a lot of research on this. If they want you to use 5W-30, don’t think you can outsmart them.
© 2012 Rick Muscoplat
Posted on by Rick Muscoplat