Diagnose a belt tensioner
Here’s how to diagnose a belt tensioner so you don’t replace a bunch of good parts. A serpentine belt drive is a system. The automatic belt tensioner is a critical component. And if you don’t treat it as a system and just replace the belt, you’ll never solve your belt noise or belt performance issue. Here’s what causes the most misunderstanding about belt tensioners. Their first job is to maintain the proper tension on the serpentine belt. That’s easy enough, you just build a tensioning device with a strong enough spring to keep the belt at the correct tension. But the tensioner also has to compensate for belt wear and stretch. As belts wear, they ride deeper into the micro-grooves and that changes belt length. The spring inside the tensioner is designed to take up the slack caused by belt wear and still maintain proper belt tension.
But that’s not a tensioner’s only job. Engines don’t provide smooth rotation at the crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer). In fact, they provide a series of power pulses, caused by each cylinder’s contribution to power during the power stroke. So the harmonic balancer actually pulses with each power stroke. That exerts a pull on the belt, causing the tensioner to move. Then, between pulses, the belt relaxes slightly and the tensioner returns to its normal position. If there were no dampening mechanism in the tensioner, the power pulses would cause to belt vibration and make noise—like guitar being plucked. So all tensioners include a vibration damening mechanism. When they wear out, the belt makes noise and transmits that vibration to other components like the alternator, power steering pump, and A/C compressor. That vibration, along with the pulses, can cause premature bearing failure on those components. So you see why a properly operating belt tensioner is so important.
The visual test
Start with an engine-off visual inspection. Use a bright flashlight and look for traces of rust coming from the spring/dampener area. If you see rust, the tensioner is bad. Replace it. Next, turn on the A/C and run the engine at idle speed. Then shine a flashlight on the roller/pulley at the end of the belt tensioner arm. You should see little-to-no movement if the dampener mechanism is doing its job. The sign of a good tensioner is 0 to only 1/32” movement. If you see more, the dampening mechanism is worn and the tensioner must be replaced.
The mechanical test
If the tensioner passes the visual test, turn off the engine and let it cool. Then rotate the tension arm and remove the belt.
The tensioner should rotate smoothly in both directions. If you detect any binding or noise, the tensioner is bad and must be replaced. Next, spin the roller/pulley at the end of the tensioner arm. The roller/pulley should spin smoothly. If you notice any binding or resistance or a gravely sound, it’s bad and must be replaced.
Replace the tensioner and belt as a set.
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© 2012 Rick MuscoplatPosted on by Rick Muscoplat