AC blows warm— How to diagnose and fix
How to diagnose an AC blows warm air condition
Don’t just add refrigerant to solve a car AC blows warm air condition. There are many other things that can cause a fully charged system to blow warm air. There are certain steps you should take to diagnose why your car AC blows warm air. Here they are:
Step 1: Check for AC compressor clutch engagement
Your car’s AC system can’t cool if the compressor clutch doesn’t engage.
Lack of compressor clutch engagement can be caused by low system charge, excessively high pressure, a blown fuse, bad compressor clutch relay, clutch connector or grounding issues, an incorrect clutch air gap or a failed compressor clutch coil.
So start your diagnosis by turning the AC to MAX. Start the engine and pop the hood. Check to see if the center AC compressor clutch disc is spinning. If not, read this post to diagnose a compressor clutch not engaging condition.
If the AC compressor clutch engages and immediately disengages, you may have a clogged orifice tube or expansion valve. To learn more about orifice tube and expansion valve systems, see this post.
If the AC compressor clutch is spinning but your car AC blows warm air, follow these steps
Determine which type of system the carmaker installed in your vehicle. Orifice tube and expansion valve systems operate differently and must be tested differently. Find the type of system in your vehicle in this chart
Learn how an orifice tube system works BEFORE you start working on it
An orifice tube system is pretty simple. The orifice tube is simply a refrigerant metering device that allows only a certain amount of refrigerant into the evaporator coil. Orifice tubes incorporate a filter to prevent crud from clogging the orifice. When the filter becomes plugged, it can’t allow enough refrigerant to enter the evaporator. If you don’t understand how an orifice tube system works, you can’t diagnose and fix it.
Learn how an expansion valve system works BEFORE you start working on it
An expansion valve system is a bit more complicated and slightly harder to diagnose. The expansion valve can be a “block” style” or a valve with a capillary tube. It’s job is to meter liquid refrigerant into the evaporator based on the outlet temperature at the evaporator or the temperature of the evaporator coil using a capillary tube. Expansion valves can fail due to clogging, a kinked capillary tube (especially if you’ve had work done under the dash or hood), or failure of the diaphragm.
Step 2: Use a manifold gauge set to check high and low refrigerant pressures.
Some DIY forums tell you to use a small screwdriver to depress the valve in the pressure port. They say if you hear a hissing sound, that means there’s refrigerant in the system. That’s true as far
as it goes, but it’s NOT a measure of how much refrigerant is in the system. SO it’s an invalid test.
You can’t diagnose your car’s AC system without gauges. So get a
manifold gauge set and refer to this post for what the pressures mean.
Refer to this chart for a quick diagnosis
If the readings are a problem, conduct a superheat load test
©, 2018 Rick Muscoplat
Posted on by Rick Muscoplat