Strut Replacement Cost: What Shops Don’t Tell You

Two Ways to Replace Struts And The Pricing for Each

Quick Summary

Struts can be replaced in two ways: By reusing the spring and strut mount or by replacing the entire assembly. Each method affects labor time, parts quality, ride comfort, and long-term durability. Understanding the differences among the approaches is key to avoiding overspending—or worse, paying less now and more later.

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Strut Replacement Cost — Two Ways to Replace Struts (And Why the Price Matters)

After decades of diagnosing suspension problems, I’ve learned that strut replacement costs are among the most misunderstood repair expenses. Two shops can quote prices hundreds of dollars apart for the exact same vehicle, and both can honestly say they’re right. The difference almost always comes down to which strut-replacement method they use and the quality of the parts they install.

Let me walk you through both approaches, explain how they affect strut replacement cost, and show you how to decide which option makes sense for your vehicle and driving habits.

Method #1: Replace just the strut and mount

In this method, the shop starts by measuring the vehicle’s ride height. If it’s within specifications, they can reuse the old springs. Then they remove the complete strut assembly from the vehicle, use a strut spring compressor to compress the spring, then remove the top nut and disassemble all parts.

Next, they determine if the spring isolator, jounce bumper, and dust boot are in good enough condition to reuse. If so, they’ll install just a new strut and strut mount.

This method saves money by reusing perfectly good parts. The downside is that it takes longer to disassemble and reassemble the strut, thereby increasing labor costs.

Method #2: Install a loaded strut assembly

In this method, the shop removes the strut assembly and replaces it with a complete strut

Strut replacement cost comparison

Let’s take a look at the parts and labor costs for a 2015 Toyota Rav 4 AWD

Strut cost using Method #1

The flat rate labor guide shows 3.4 hours of labor to replace the front struts using method #1. Add 1 hour for an alignment. At a shop rate of $130/hr, the labor comes to$572

2  KYB struts at $150 each = $300
2 KYB strut mounts at $75 each = $150
Total strut replacement cost $1,022

Strut cost using Method #2

The flat rate labor guide shows 2.4 hours of labor to replace the front strut assemblies using method #2. Add 1 hour for an alignment. At a shop rate of $130/hr, the labor comes to$442
2  KYB loaded strut assemblies at $325 each = $750
Total strut replacement cost $1,192

Advantages of a complete strut assembly

The new spring will restore the vehicle’s ride height and stiffen the suspension, returning it to near-factory comfort. You’ll also have a new dust boot, jounce bumper, and spring isolator.

Disadvantages of a complete strut assembly installation

The strut used in a complete strut assembly is usually the manufacturer’s economy model, so it won’t last as long as a standard strut. Some cheaper knock-off (non-brand-name) strut assemblies have mismatched springs, resulting in a very bumpy ride.

For best results, choose a name-brand loaded strut assembly (KYB, Monroe, Gabriel, SACHS, FCS).

Advantages of a strut and strut mount installation

It will last longer than a loaded strut assembly.

Disadvantages of a strut and strut mount installation

You’re not getting a new spring, so you may be riding on sagging springs.

Strut replacement cost at the dealer

A car dealer will use be the most expensive since their hourly labor rates are higher than a chain or independently owned repair shop. A dealer will also use genuine factory parts, which cost more than aftermarket parts. On the flip side, genuine factory struts will duplicate the original ride feel better than aftermarket struts. Figure roughly $800 parts cost per pair at a dealer.

Pros: Genuine factory parts anda  close to factory ride

Cons: Most expensive

Strut replacement cost at a chain-operated tire/muffler/brake shop

Chain-operated tire/brake/muffler shops often run promotional strut-replacement sale prices to attract new customers, so their prices appear lower than those of other shops. The most common promotion deal is: Buy 3 struts, get the fourth for free. But the promotional price is often a bait-and-switch offer. Once in the door, the shop will try to upsell you on a better strut or add the cost of strut mounts and alignment.

Worse yet, because company-owned and franchised chain stores buy so many struts, they often buy a “look-alike” strut unit that’s actually a lower-quality part. The chain offers you a lifetime guarantee to make you think you’re getting a top-quality part. But often you’re getting a bottom-of-the-barrel, low-quality part that will fail sooner than a high-quality aftermarket part or a dealer-sold part. Here’s the catch: if the part fails, the chain will replace the strut for free, but YOU pay for the labor.

If you plan to keep your vehicle for a long time, I recommend avoiding company-owned and franchised chain repair shops.

Pros: Always on sale; promotional pricing that appears to save you money. Lifetime warranty

Cons: bait-and-switch pricing and lower-quality parts. A lifetime warranty doesn’t include labor costs.

What else to replace when you’re doing struts?

In many cases, the shop must disconnect one end of the stabilizer bar’s end links to remove the strut. Stabilizer bar end links are fairly inexpensive (usually less than $40 each). Ask the shop whether they need to disconnect the stabilizer bar end links on your vehicle. If so, ask if they’ll cut you a better price on end link replacement since you’ve already paid for half the labor.

Struts are wear items just like tires. The strut manufacturers recommend replacement every 50,000 miles. Nobody does that. The truth is, they usually last about 80,000 miles. Here’s how to know when yours are worn out and how to buy new ones.

Is a strut a safety item, or is it just for comfort?

A strut’s job is to “dampen spring rebound.” In other words, if you hit a bump, the struts prevent the tire from bouncing several times after the initial bounce. When struts wear out, the tire may bounce three or more times after hitting a bump, reducing your vehicle’s control and increasing your stopping distance. By how much? Tests show that worn struts can cause your tires to spend so much time in the air bouncing that they can increase your stopping distance from a 60-MPH stop by as much as 12 feet. That can mean the difference between life and death. If you drive much beyond the 80,000-mile mark on your struts, you’re simply gambling with your life.

Plus, you’re causing excessive wear on your tires and your vehicle’s entire suspension system. The continued bouncing wears out ball joints, control arm bushings, and stabilizer bar end links.

©, 2016 Rick Muscoplat

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