Can a transmission fluid flush fix shifting problems?

What a Transmission Fluid Flush Actually Does

First, let’s get clear on what a transmission fluid flush is. Unlike a simple drain-and-fill, a flush removes nearly all of the old fluid using a machine that pumps new fluid in while forcing the old fluid out. It’s often marketed as a cure-all, especially by quick lube chains.

Transmission fluid serves several critical purposes: it lubricates internal components, cools the system, and, in automatic transmissions, it provides the hydraulic pressure needed to shift gears. If that fluid is old, burned, or contaminated, the transmission may slip, hesitate, or jerk during gear changes. In theory, replacing it with fresh fluid might help. But here’s the catch: that only works if severely degraded and burnt fluid is the cause of the problem.

When a Transmission Fluid Flush Might Actually Fix the Problem

In my experience, a transmission fluid flush is most helpful to keep the fluid clean and maintain it’s anti-oxidation and anti-corrosion additives, along with its friction modifiers.

Shifting issues often arise when the fluid hasn’t been changed in 40,000 to 60,000 miles. If the fluid smells burnt or looks brown or dark, it’s overdue. In these cases, I’ve seen a flush noticeably improve shift quality and even eliminate the problem entirely.

But—and this is a big but—there’s a point of no return.

• The shifting issues are caused by dirty or contaminated fluid— If the transmission fluid is dirty or contaminated, it can affect the transmission’s performance. Flushing out the old fluid and replacing it with fresh fluid can improve shifting and overall operation.

• The shifting issues are due to fluid breakdown— The friction modifiers in the transmission fluid can wear out, resulting in a loss of friction grip that causes the clutch discs and steel separators to slip. A transmission fluid flush can sometimes help restore the gripping action in the clutch packs, giving you better shifting.

• Debris and Deposits— Deposits and debris can accumulate in the transmission and affect its performance. A flush can help remove these contaminants and improve shifting.

A transmission flush can’t fix shifting problems if:

• The seals have cracked due to heat and aging, resulting in pressure leaks in the clutch packs and band servos.
• The clutch discs are worn out.
• The bands are worn out
• There’s wear in the valve body
• The transmission pump is worn out and can’t produce enough pressure

If your transmission is already failing internally, a transmission fluid flush won’t save it. In fact, it could accelerate the failure. Let me explain.

Older fluid becomes contaminated with friction material from the clutch packs. That gunk can sometimes mask problems by increasing internal pressure and helping hold slipping clutches together. When you flush that out, you lose that “false support,” and what was a minor issue can turn into total failure within days.

Here are some warning signs that your transmission is already on its way out; performing a flush might do more harm than good:

• The fluid is black or smells like burned toast
• The transmission is slipping severely or won’t engage at all

I’ve seen it firsthand: customers who ignored fluid changes for 100,000 miles bring their car in for a flush because it started slipping, only for the transmission to fail completely a week later. By then, it’s too late.

In some cases, a transmission flush can make shifting problems even worse or cause total failure

If your transmission fluid is dark brown or black, that’s a sign of severe fluid breakdown caused by overheating and clutch wear. Performing a fluid flush on a worn transmission with burnt fluid carries a big risk of total failure following the flush. There are several theories on why this happens:

• Overheating causes the transmission fluid to break down, leaving varnish deposits in high-friction areas. New fluid dissolves the varnish buildup, resulting in excessive clearances and pressure loss.

• Debris from fluid breakdown often settles in the cracks of seals. Fresh fluid cleans out the debris, causing pressure leakage and complete clutch pack failure.

• A fluid flush stirs up debris that has settled on the bottom of the transmission pan, causing it to spread throughout the transmission, clogging passages and accelerating wear on already worn parts.

How a transmission clutch pack works

Automatic transmissions are made with several clutch packs.

A transmission clutch pack includes a clutch drum, clutch friction discs, clutch plates (often called “steels:) and a piston and lip seal

Think of a clutch pack like a coffee can with a shaft running through the middle. The pack is loaded with alternating steel discs and clutch discs. The clutch discs have teeth on their inner diameter and engage with the shaft, while the teeth on the steel plates engage with the clutch drum. The entire disc pack fits into the clutch drum and a piston and lip seal are added, along with a locking ring.

Alternating clutch discs and steel discs

When the clutch pack isn’t needed, a large band tightens around the clutch drum to prevent it from turning. There’s no fluid pressure inside the drum, so when the shaft spins, it turns the clutch discs freely. However, when the transmission requires that gear, it applies fluid pressure to the drum, causing the clutch discs against the steel discs. So the turning

Clutch pack piston lip and shaft seals

shaft then rotates the clutch discs, which are held against the steel disc due to the high pressure. Since the steel discs are splined to the drum, the entire drum turns, and the gear mounted on the end of the drum provides a different gear ratio.

What goes wrong with a transmission clutch pack?

The piston lip seal is the most critical component of a clutch pack. Automatic transmission fluid can get very hot; over time, that hot fluid can cause rubber seals to harden and crack. If the clutch pack lip seal develops cracks, the discs inside will slip when they should be held solidly against one another. That slipping action causes the clutch discs to heat up and deteriorate. That extra heat further degrades the transmission fluid, and the particles generated by the wear can clog cracks in the clutch piston lip seal. The particles can help the lip seal create a better seal, but it’s not a lasting fix because the particles flush out, leaving the cracks open to pressure loss again.

Which transmission fluid additives help shifting issues?

Lots of companies make transmission fix additives. Most of these

Lubeguard Automatic Transmission Protectant

“Miracle in a Bottle” products don’t work. They’re simply seal swellers that soften rubber seals, making them seal better. But the fix doesn’t last. I recommend only one product, and it’s the same product endorsed by most car makers: Lubeguard. Most transmission rebuilders add this additive after a transmission rebuild. I’ve used it, and I highly recommend it.

When added after a transmission fluid flush, LUBEGARD ATF Protectant reconditions seals, reduces “shudder” caused by frictionally depleted fluid. Shudder is often referred to as “stick slip.” The ingredients in Lubeguard ATF protectant help solve shudder problems.  In addition, Lubeguard ATF protectant raises the transmission fluid’s thermal and oxidative stability and increases the fluid’s ability to transfer heat.

The other Lubeguard product that helps is Lubeguard Instant Shudder Fixx

Lubeguard Instant Shudder Fixx contains a specially formulated

Lubeguard Instant Shudder Fixx stops the shudder when the transmission shifts into overdrive

friction modifier designed to instantly eliminate torque converter lock-up shudder. Lock-up shudder occurs during the “lock-up” phase when the torque converter provides 1:1 power to the transmission. In the process of locking up, the torque converter turbine locks to the clutch and rear housing. If slipping occurs during the pressure lockup, you get a momentary shudder. Lubeguard Instant Shudder Fixx eliminates the shudder when shifting into overdrive.

©, 2017 Rick Muscoplat

Save